Trpanj Holidays

Trpanj is a picture-postcard fishing port on Croatia’s Pelješac peninsula, backdropped by the jagged mountain slopes of Sveti Ilija. Dating back to Roman times, the town’s spotless streets fan out from the old harbour. There are no high-rise hotels, instead row after row of whitewashed, terracotta-roofed buildings, and a handful of Baroque churches. And the whole scene is bathed in the fragrant scent of pine and cypress trees.

Trpanj’s clean beaches are a major part of its appeal. Cosying up to the old harbour is Pozora Beach, a compact swathe of sand and shingle washed by the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic Sea. Its gently shelving water makes it a perfect playground for families, and it’s backed by a promenade where you can get a snack or a cold drink. And let’s not forget Luka Beach, on the western edge of town. It’s a tree-backed curl of shingle where you can lie back and relax, or windsurf across the bay.

Hugging the coastline is the Promenade of Villas, a scenic walkway lined with seafood restaurants and bars a stone’s throw from the sea. Early in the morning you can watch the fishermen haul in their catch, while in the evenings it’s the place to kick back with a glass of Dingac, which hails from the nearby vineyards. Historic stone buildings are tucked in the sleepy streets behind the promenade. St Rocco church stands head and shoulders above them all.

Trpanj aside, there’s plenty to see on the Pelješac peninsula. The quaint fishing village of Duba is 15 minutes’ drive along the coast. Donja Banda, in the heart of the peninsula, is where the famed Postup reds wines are produced. And the port town of Orebic is 20 minutes away, with the kilometre-long sands of Trstenica Beach.