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With ancient olive groves, untouched beaches and sleepy fishing villages, Paxos holidays let you experience a traditional side of Greece.
At just 10 kilometres by four kilometres, Paxos is the smallest of the Ionian Islands, located just off the west coast of Greece. As there's no airport there, many holidaymakers simply skip right past it. Fly to nearby Corfu and then sail across to the island to make the most of this Grecian sweet spot.
The rural village of Magazia's where you can really get away from the crowds. Join in with watersports at Harami Beach and explore the hiking trails over the surrounding hills. Just outside town is the Olive Oil Museum – stock up on everything from bottles of the golden elixir to moisturising soaps and beauty bits.
For such a small island, Paxos is jam-packed with shingle beaches. The east coast alone has 30-odd bays to lay your towel on, and there are more just waiting to be discovered. Head to one of the inlets – like Gaios or Lakka – for sunloungers and sea-view tavernas.
Possibly the prettiest beach on Paxos – even if it's man-made – Mongonissi Beach is the island's only sandy shore. The crystal-clear waters are great for swimming and snorkelling, and you can rent kayaks to check out the nearby coast. The beach is backed by the rocks and green slopes typical of the island's west coast.
Unlike a lot of the more popular Greek islands, unknown beaches are everywhere you turn here – maybe because most can't be accessed from land. Hire yourself a motorboat from the harbour towns, pack a picnic and head for the west coast around the Ortholithos Stack to find your very own little cove.
The port of Lakka, in the north of the island, is set around a horseshoe-shaped bay with a backdrop of rolling green hills. Its sheltered bay of sweeping sand and white-pebble beaches are lined with gift shops selling colourful fridge magnets and classic postcards.
The shopping scene on Paxos is much like the island – low-key and traditional. Locally made crafts, like intricately embroidered linens from Loggos, are the kind of souvenirs you'll be taking home. In Gaios, wander down the narrow streets that wind around the harbour to find hidden shops selling glazed ceramics and olive-wood carvings.
Workshops-turned-boutiques are owned by local artisans, who carefully design bespoke pieces by hand. Head to jewellers in and around Loggos' harbour for your pick of one-of-a-kind treasures. If you're feeling up to the ferry, Corfu Town's where the honey-toned gold's at.
After dusk, work your way through the menus at waterfront tavernas, or try easygoing cocktail bars in Loggos, Lakka and Gaios. Those who love a sunset should find a table at the restaurant and bar atop the chalky-white cliffs at Erimitis Bay. Everything here's served with photo-worthy views.
Life's more about laidback bars than crazy parties in Paxos. In Loggos, seafront bars serve the area's famed watermelon-vodka cocktails, and there are cool hangouts in Gaios' Panagioti Kanga and Gaios Square. If you're in the mood to put on your dancing shoes, there are a couple of clubs near the town's harbour.
Paxos fish stew combines fish, prawns and spices with red wine. It's a firm favourite here, so you'll find it on menus in all the island's top restaurants.
Simple but satisfying, saganaki's straight-up grilled Greek cheese. It's topped with a drizzle of honey and a sprinkle of sesame, then served on a leafy salad.
Tropita's a bakery staple made with layers of pastry and cheese, then baked until golden – perfect for a beach picnic.
A traditional dish topped with veggies and local herbs, kleftiko is slow-cooked and super tender lamb. Some recipes also add feta for a creamier texture – and to make it that little bit more Greek.
From an island that's got more vines than people, Antipaxos is a rich red that's up there with the finest wines in the Ionian Islands. Pour yourself a glass or two and let evening roll into night.
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