When I accepted my second cruise contract and started daydreaming of the ship’s Greek itinerary, I pictured myself gallivanting around the rocky coastlines, swimming in clear blue waters and strolling charming fishing villages. Some of the more popular Greek destinations like Santorini and Mykonos promise that idyllic, authentic Greek lifestyle. But with packed crowds of other tourists, that perfect picture of Greece can easily become tainted. But, there was one Greek island that pieced the picture back together for me and unexpectedly stole my whole heart… Kefalonia.
Kefalonia’s architecture is a bit more modern, considering an earthquake destroyed much of the classic Venetian architecture in 1953. But if you’re looking to go beyond the more well-trodden Greek islands and capture that laidback, authentic Greek spirit, you’re in for some unbelievable sights, bites and activities in Kefalonia.
The charming capital of Argostoli
Most cruise ships port in the capital of Argostoli, which also happens to be a perfect hub to stay in for a Kefalonia holiday. With a car, it’s not too difficult to make your way around the island, considering it only takes an hour to drive from end to end.
On a few of our ship’s days in Argostoli, I would spend hours wandering the shoreline and exploring a bit of the town. I spotted sea turtles at the waterfront, browsed local shops and strolled across the De Bosset Bridge, a flat stone walkway that crosses the inlet. The centrepiece to the bridge is the monumental obelisk from 1813, floating right in the middle. But the path connecting the bridge to the obelisk is now underwater.
Wandering further into town, I snacked on baklava at a local bakery, read a book amongst groups of local kids and diners lounging about on the sidewalks, and explored a few markets sporting local Greek delicacies like olive oils, dried meats and fresh cheeses.
Argostoli is sweet and simple. It may not be as dramatic as other Greek destinations, but it’s the perfect setting for indulging in simple pleasures like people-watching, eating and taking a swim.
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A dreamy swim at Myrtos Beach
I got to venture outside of Argostoli when my dad and his girlfriend came for a weeklong visit on the ship. We took an excursion to hit most of the iconic Kefalonia sights, with Myrtos Beach being one of the top two crown jewels of the whole holiday. The view of the beach from above is stunning, with the swirling blue waters and pearl-white shore. Our tour guide claimed the weather conditions weren’t ideal for swimming in the water, and we’d only get to see the beach from the cliffside… So, sadly it felt like the gorgeous view was taunting us as we wearily made our way back to the bus, wishing we could head down there to truly enjoy the beach instead of just looking at it.
Luckily, the tides turned and we headed down for the chance to swim in Myrtos’ dreamy crystal-blue waters. The water was so clear, you could see straight to the bottom… but apparently not clear enough for me to spot the jellyfish that would sting me a mere minute into my swim. My right arm was red and burning, but I still smiled the entire walk up and down the beach. Jellyfish be damned, I would absolutely swim in that perfect water again and again.
As we walked, I noticed a few small boats anchored at the mouth of the cove. In Argostoli’s harbor, I remembered seeing tour boats advertising daytrips to Myrtos and other Kefalonia swimming spots. With a bout tour, you get the same views and the chance to swim in the same water without having to fight crowds for a sunbathing spot on the shoreline. I’ll definitely consider a boat tour for my next trip back to Kefalonia!
A quaint fishing village lunch stop
After Myrtos Beach, we took a small detour to the quaint fishing village of Agia Efimia, along Kefalonia’s east coast. There are plenty of tavernas along the village’s waterfront, but while most of our tour group sat down at the liveliest one, we decided to dine one door down at a quieter spot. The staff greeted us with warm smiles, and my dad’s girlfriend immediately remarked on the cute paper tablecloths, lined with olive branches with a decorative map of Kefalonia in the middle.
We feasted on dolmadakia (stuffed grape leaves), the heartiest Greek salad of my life, topped with triangles of crumbly Feta cheese, and a Gyro platter with heaps of freshly baked pita. The produce was the freshest I’ve ever tasted, all from Greece, ofc. The meat was perfectly grilled and generously seasoned, and for just €20 in total, it was plenty to fill up all three of us and such great value.
The Greeks are some of the friendliest and most welcoming people I’ve had the pleasure to meet on my travels, the staff here being no exception. We learned more about their village and life on Kefalonia, shared stories about our own homes, and gushed endlessly over the delicious meal. On our way out, they even folded up one of the tablecloths for us to take home as a souvenir.
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The mythical waters of Melissani Cave
We took a short drive from Agia Efimia to the ancient Melissani Cave for a rowboat ride across this mystical and stunning underground lake. The site doesn’t look like much as you pass through a small gift shop and head in a straight line with some other tour groups down a tunnel. But once you emerge lakeside to board your rowboat, the magic starts to set in.
The ancient cave has an oval-shaped opening at the top that lets the sunshine pour in. The roof collapse that created this opening led to the cave’s rediscovery in 1951, after the earthquake devastated most of Kefalonia. The sparkling blue water is incredibly inviting, but swimming isn’t allowed to help preserve the cave and lake.
We glided across the lake as our guide shared some fun facts (the lake is 39 meters’ deep!) and it’s got mythological origins, as a worship site for Pan and Nymph Melissani. He snapped photos for us and the other boat guests while cracking jokes, keeping us smiling and laughing, as we admired the gorgeous stalactites sculpting the cave. You’re also likely to spot quite a few sleeping bats in the far corners. I’ll admit, I am a little jealous that those bats get to call Melissani Cave their home.
Then, it was time for a winding ride back across the island to board the ship again in Argostoli. It seemed that around every bend was another rocky cliffside or stunning view of the coast. We passed a few smaller villages and eventually spotted the De Bosset Bridge that I’d crossed over once every two weeks for the past few months.
This magical day was my last time in Kefalonia, but it was the first day I realised just how much this Ionian island had come to mean to me. And, I had only just scratched the surface of everything it has to offer! I can’t wait to return to visit more charming villages like Fiscardo and Assos, swim in new spots like Xi Beach and explore sights I’d missed, like Mount Ainos National Park. But for now, I’ll keep dreaming of Kefalonia’s calming energy, fantastical beaches, kind people and crystal clear water until my return…
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Author: Maddy Mackarey (she/her)
Last updated: 15/08/2025
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